A true showstopper, at least in my mother’s humble, smoke-infused kitchen, long before the proliferation of blogs, online tutorials, and celebrity chefs.
It was the dish that even my stoic and nonchalant African father, a man of few words and even fewer “thank yous,” would acknowledge with a silent, approving nod as that steaming, vibrant green mash of Mukimo graced his plate.
Mum’s kitchen was more than just a space for cooking; it was a magical theatre of cherished memories. From a distance, one could picture our smoky homestead, hear the sharp snap of firewood, the rhythmic gurgling of the boiling pot, and the quiet, steady beat of a wooden mwiko mashing away. In all its traditional glory, Mukimo wasn’t just food; it was the very essence of a homely home.
Seated cross-legged on the fertile red soil of Mt. Kirinyaga, captivated by my father’s endless tales, Mukimo was our go-to for recovery after a long day of duties in the shamba. Young and admittedly naive, I confess I didn’t quite grasp its significance then. Secretly longing for the greasy fast food I’d occasionally indulge in at my uncles’ place in Nairobi, I’d often think, “This is far too kienyeji for me!”
Now, living in the bustling “City Under the Sun,” that very meal I once disdainfully dismissed has transformed into a profound craving – affordable, deeply satisfying, and steeped in nostalgia.
One day, with the noble intention of impressing my visiting elder sister, I decided to recreate mum’s Mukimo. To it, I ventured to add a tablespoon of garlic-ginger paste, separately sautéed onions, mashed roasted butternut, and crowned the entire dish with a rich, spicy goat stew.
“How on earth did you make this?” she exclaimed, meticulously clearing every last morsel from the heap I had served her. With an ear-to-ear grin, I proudly declared, “It’s mum’s recipe… with a modern twist!”
Approved by my ever-critical sister, I made a silent vow to forever swear by our mother’s original method:
Boil your potatoes with green peas, add some pre-boiled mbembe (soft maize), and salt to taste. Once tender, mash vigorously while still hot, incorporating sautéed spring onions and fresh pumpkin leaves. No food processors, no shortcuts. Just pure love and the honest effort of elbow strength.
Humble? Yes. But never mistake Mukimo’s simplicity for weakness.
Served with any kind of stew, the delectable samaki wa kupaka, or even just a simple kachumbari or fresh salad, it unfailingly holds its own on the plate.
Mukimo, once largely an upcountry staple, has steadily and undeniably become a beloved Kenyan favourite. It now graces urban households, features prominently on restaurant menus as a cherished side dish, and continues to tell a story. Mukimo – green, hearty, and immensely rich in heritage – truly deserves all the accolades. Let’s give this meal its well-deserved flowers!
By Kamaru Mathenge
